Clark Street and Dearborn between Washington and Randolph

Named for Chicago’s most famous and most infamous mayor, the Richard J. Daley Center anchors the Loop with a masterpiece monument and a monumental courthouse. The “diamond in the rust” of Chicago’s public art, Picasso’s untitled sculpture resembles the head of a woman who looks like an afghan hound who looks like a woman. It’s one of the most controversial and beloved landmarks of the city, unveiled to cheers and jeers in 1967. A rather severe fountain gets a new look each March, when, like the nearby Chicago River, it turns an enchanting shade of Kelly green in honor of St. Patrick’s Day.

The Daley Center was constructed in 1965. C.F. Murphy, successor firm to Mies Van der Rohe, joined Loebl, Schlossman & Bennett, and Skidmore, Owings and Merrill to execute a grand public plaza. A block of existing shops and restaurants fell to the wrecking ball, lamented even today by those who cherished old Chicago’s nighttime exuberance. There are signs, however, that hot times in the old town may be coming back.

In recent years the area has seen the renaissance of Block 37, a vacant lot across Dearborn Street from the Plaza that now houses a summertime arts program for high school students and a winter skating rink. The Ford Oriental Theater on Randolph Street has reopened, too. With the Shubert and Chicago Theaters’ solid schedule, downtown’s nightlife appears to be on the rebound; a concerted effort by the Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs to bring lively dance music, films and concert programs to the Loop is also a success. Still, Daley Plaza, however cheerful at high noon, can be a lonely place at night, when throngs of city workers have gone home and the government offices are empty.

To warm that chilly granite prairie, the city has instituted a number of ethnic festivals. You may find Chinese, German, Polish, Italian or Mexican cultural celebrations, and the aroma of bratwurst is exchanged for that of cocoa butter during a summertime candy festival. High school choirs, dance troupes, and street performers vie for your attention, and if nothing else is going on, there’s usually a pack of kids using the Picasso as a giant slide. A spectacular Farmers’ Market is held on Thursdays in the summer and fall, with fresh produce trucked in from regional farms, fresh flowers, baked goods, and potted plants. You may also find hot chili pepper preserves or bonsai trees beside the inevitable hand-painted pumpkins. Christmas brings the enormous civic tree and, more recently, Hanukkah decorations.

Tip: Don’t miss the Joan Miro sculpture that hides across the street in a shadowy nook. Its modesty before the Picasso is touching, but it has its own whimsical charm. Models for both of the sculptures are in the collection of the Art Institute of Chicago.